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From Middletown to the Middle East

~ Reflections on travel and teaching

From Middletown to the Middle East

Monthly Archives: August 2011

A mighty hunter before the Lord

31 Wednesday Aug 2011

Posted by tgilheany in Fulbright project

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Israeli foreign policy, second intifada, social entrepreneur

Nimrod Goren is soft-spoken, friendly and modest; he does not initially appear to be as intimidating as his namesake of Genesis 10:9. He is, however, as one discovers upon researching him, a total hotshot. On Monday I was lucky to have the chance to meet with him – he came in from Tel Aviv where he was speaking with people about setting up his new think tank, Mitvim (Hebrew for “sketches” or “blueprints”.) Nimrod describes its goals thus: “Mitvim – The Israeli Institute for Regional Foreign Policies is an independent think tank that envisions a fresh start for Israel among the nations. It aims to reshape Israel’s relations in the Middle East, Europe and the Mediterranean, by promoting new paradigms for Israel’s foreign policies, enhancing Israel’s regional belonging, and advancing Israeli-Arab peace.”

Prof. Goren and Hakam Jadallah winning the 2009 Victor J. Goldberg IEE Prize for Peace in the Middle East for their work founding a Palestinian and Israeli Young Professionals alliance. (Credit: Institute of International Education http://goo.gl/Otjn9 )

Nimrod writes and teaches about Israeli foreign policy, and is particularly expert in the role of Turkey in the Middle East. We had a wonderful conversation about the current Israeli political climate. He noted that many “people to people” projects collapsed in the second intifada, and that actually this was not all bad – a kind of “survival of the fittest.” I asked him what was it specifically about the second intifada that killed off some of these projects. He noted the physical impact of the separation fence/wall. (When I mentioned this to Zvi, he added that it is hard to sustain momentum when your group seems so irrelevant). His wife works for one of the projects that does continue, a bilingual school, and I will be interested in speaking with her. She was just one of the many helpful contacts he suggested.

While I only initially heard of Nimrod through a family contact, it turns out that he is also a Fulbright alumnus! On top of excellent advice on the academic side, then, he had helpful thoughts on arriving in a foreign country with only some idea of the project one wanted to undertake.

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Administrivia, and the broad sweep of history

31 Wednesday Aug 2011

Posted by tgilheany in Fulbright project

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administrative details, history, Israeli politics

Today I met again with my advisor, Zvi Bekerman, mostly around university logistics. We went to meet with a university administrator about how I can get a university ID card, access to the library and the computer system, how I can audit a course and (least importantly for my project but something that would be nice for the whole family) access to the gym. The news was good overall – it can be done. It would be easier if I had “a letter of invitation from the university.” I found this a bit confusing since I thought for the purposes of these documents the administrator with whom I was talking was the university. Zvi helped, explaining that if Fulbright could talk to folks in the Hebrew U administration with whom they had prior contacts, they might produce such a letter of invitation. So I have asked the already very helpful Fulbright folks for yet more help.

All conquered territory...many times over

There was a funny moment as Zvi and I were beginning to talk. I had not noticed on my last trip that many offices in the building (and due to careful architecture, many rooms of the university as a whole) have an unbelievable view over the Dome of the Rock and the Old City. I commented on the view, and Zvi said with a wry smile, “Never forget it is all conquered territory.” Hmm…is he thinking of 1967? 1948? Or further back, to Crusaders, Arab conquerors in the 7th century, Byzantines, Romans, Greeks, Persians? Perhaps the reference was to the Babylonian conquest of Jerusalem in the 6th Century BCE? The first conquest I can think of is the Israelite conquest of Jebusite Jerusalem under David. It certainly is all conquered territory.

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Café conversation

29 Monday Aug 2011

Posted by tgilheany in Fulbright project

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contacts, Israeli education, research

Shosh Café, one of many helpful pointers from David

In a funny coincidence, I was introduced to David Gerwin through two different connections. He is a friend of a friend of my cousin, and he was also the graduate school advisor of a fellow Fulbright grantee. He teaches at Queens College in New York about how to teach history, and is on sabbatical in Jerusalem. He speaks Hebrew and has been here several times.

David and I had a great conversation in which I asked him many questions about the different styles of orthodoxy and how they inform the Israeli educational system. He described how there are so many definitions of orthodox – for some, the defining question would be keeping kosher and observing the Sabbath. For others, it would be whether you consider women part of the minyan. (At one small school that has parallel “secular” and “religious” tracks, the simple test was “does your family drive on Shabbat?”) He noted that the most liberal Orthodox schools were frequently a product of the English-speaking world beyond Israel, and that Israelis from non-Anglophone backgrounds were more likely to be either very observant (though most were not not ultra-Orthodox) or fully secular. He described the range of schools that one might consider in Israel, and how different identities might play out.

As we were discussing the different ways students are taught in different types of Israeli schools, David mentioned an interesting study comparing how students in Tel Aviv and students in the settlements learned about the story of Josef Trumpeldor, an early Zionist hero. As I understand it (I’ll have to get the citation), all Israelis know the mythic version of the story of Trumpeldor’s death. Both groups of students were taught a more recent account that scholars would assume was a less nationalistic reading. Then they came back later to test how the new narrative had affected the two groups. I believe that the more secular, Tel Aviv students mostly forgot the story, and reverted to the mythic version. The settlement students neither forgot the revisionist narrative nor did it weaken their nationalism. They reinterpreted the message of the narrative to support their nationalism (something that a scholar reading the new story would find hard to do and surprising.

David has some contacts for me, and some ideas for ways I can get started talking to teachers. I also want to bounce some of my interview questions off him to see what he thinks of them, what else I should ask, etc. He also introduced me to a delicious café, Shosh café, right around the corner from my apartment!

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First Shabbat in Jerusalem

27 Saturday Aug 2011

Posted by tgilheany in Family

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Rockefeller Museum, Shabbat

Boy does our neighborhood rock on Shabbat eve! The party, um I mean “Shabbas dinner,” across the way went until 1am. (Apparently across town things were hopping as well. The last Friday night of Ramadan, celebrating the revelation of the Qur’an to Muhammad, brought out the crowds in East Jerusalem.) Then everyone, and I mean everyone, was in the park this afternoon. It looked like it ran the gamut from highly observant to totally secular, with perhaps a few of us goy mixed in for good measure.

San Simon Park - the place to be Shabbat afternoon

Meanwhile, of course, the streets of West Jerusalem are dead – very little traffic and all shops closed, no buses running. But East Jerusalem on Saturday is the place to be. On our way there we got one of the few non-English speaking cabbies. I pulled out my iPhone and figured out that the name for the Damascus Gate in Hebrew is the Shechem Gate – Sha’ar Sckhem. I was proud of myself, though later I discovered that he charged us 50 NIS for the privilege of a ride that should have cost c. 35. I’ve got to keep remembering to ask for the “moneh” – the meter to be turned on. The Old City was even dirtier than usual, since it was recovering from last night’s revels. Hannah was a total disaster in the Old City and the market. Walking = whining and crying. I’ve got to figure out ways to help her adapt. Fortunately we visited the Rockefeller Museum, which she really enjoyed. She liked seeing the “old” (that’s an understatement!) jewelry and the model of the museum, and the view of Mt. Scopus led to more conversations about the recent history of who controlled what pre- and post-1967. She also loved playing in the olive grove – olive trees are easy to climb.

She was a fan of this guy too

The Rockefeller Museum was almost empty, and had few guards. It seems to have frozen in time perhaps 40 years ago – the antiquities are not behind any sort of rails or glass, there is no special lighting or backings, and the labels are perfectly informative but give that “1960s” feeling. The central courtyard has parts covered with tarps. Most oddly, there appear to be sculptures just tossed in the olive grove pell-mell. Is this disuse somehow political? The museum is run by the Israel Museum, whose main buildings are incredibly modern. That said, the collection itself is remarkable, and I want to go back when I have more time.

Quiet...too quiet

Just put those lions anywhere

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A stab at what I’m doing here (i.e. a rough draft of my revised project proposal)

26 Friday Aug 2011

Posted by tgilheany in Fulbright project

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Israeli schools, palestinian schools, project proposal, teaching religion

Jerusalem's Old City from the roof of the Notre Dame Center

My friend Launa has a real blog at http://www.launawrites.com . There you can find actual writing – evocative, beautiful, and fun. Having looked at my posts so far, she gently asked what my project actually was. At the same time, Hilary suggested that the next step should be for me to more carefully define my research question. I can take a hint, so I have produced the following draft of my project proposal (extremely rough, almost certainly will change, feedback welcomed, etc.)

“I seek to interview Israeli and Palestinian teachers to learn what and how they teach about religion.

How one discusses religion is a highly contested part of any curriculum. Instructing young people on matters of faith was one of the earlier purposes of school. In medieval European universities theology was “the Queen of the Sciences.” In most times and places, to provide religious instruction different than that understood as correct by the majority could land you in a great deal of trouble; Socrates was prosecuted for, among other things, “prying into things in the heavens and below the earth.” People and institutions often respond to such tensions with silence. In the United States, for example, many people believe incorrectly that the courts have interpreted the separation of church and state to mean that it is illegal to teach about religion in the public schools. (In fact it is encouraged; proselytization is what is outlawed.) How a society approaches the teaching of religion can reveal a good deal about what that society values.

Meanwhile, most governments believe that good citizenship can and should be taught through that country’s public schools. Under various subject headings — civics, citizenship education, social studies, history, ethics, religious studies — public school systems seek to influence the values of the population. In such conversations, questions of belief are either going to arise or assumptions about them are going to be made.

Thus, some questions I might have for my teachers: What are some of the goals of your teaching? How do you design your curriculum, or how do you modify or implement the curriculum you are given? What do you see the role of your teaching being in your student’s lives? How do you see it informing their roles as citizens? How do you see it informing their personal religious choices?” Among other revisions, I will continue to add questions, of course!

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A propitious meeting

25 Thursday Aug 2011

Posted by tgilheany in Fulbright project

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Fulbright, Hebrew University, Zvi Bekerman

Hebrew University. Photo credit: delayed gratification from Flickr (I forgot my camera!)

My advisor Zvi and I had planned to meet tomorrow, but when I called him today he asked if I could meet in about 45 minutes at Hebrew U – clear across the city! Of course I said yes. A brief attempt at waiting for the bus followed by a taxi ride later I was on the Hebrew U campus. When I asked the guard for directions, he asked the next student through security if she spoke English. Not only did she, she was heading to the school of education. I ended up (my own predictions notwithstanding) actually making it to Zvi’s office on time.

Amazing interviewer and conversationalist – really puts you at ease, is up front about his “agenda” – polite but honest. He gave me the sense that he had plenty of time, and he asked me about me, my family, and just generally got to know me. When we transitioned to my work, first he helped me clarify my question. I kept saying “visit schools.” He reminded me that I really did not need to see a lot of classes, since they would not be in English. (We had a sidebar conversation about visiting schools that did speak in English – he mentioned a school in Jerusalem called St. John’s that educates primarily Palestinian kids and teaches in English.) He suggested that interviewing teachers was the key thing I needed to do, and noted that I need not gain formal access to schools to do this.

In discussing his own work, he said that two things he always needs are people to read and summarize, and people to gather data. He noted that I need not do either and that he would still do all he could to help my project. I said I thought that “gathering data” would fit well with my project as far as I knew now. “Reading and summarizing” only concerned me to the extent that it would pull me out of experiencing Israeli and Palestinian cultures. He completely understood, and reassured me that even if I wanted to help with reading, it would not be a huge amount. On the data gathering side he spoke about interviewing techniques. I noted my interest in having the most helpful and correct methodology, and he sent me two papers on interviewing.

Zvi also told me about a possible project he was forming with a Singaporean scholar, Jasmine Sim, comparing citizenship education in Israel and in Singapore. He invited me if I was interested to see if my work could be a part of their work, and that sounded good to me. He had previously sent me some of her papers to read so I could imagine the overlaps.

I told Zvi a bit about my understanding of how religion was taught in Israeli secular schools, and asked him whether I was on target. His first point was that the Bible course I had referred to was only one was the idea of Judaism was taught – he noted Jewish history, Jewish literature and Jewish tradition as other courses (or parts of courses?) that were other ways. He also noted the crucial importance of ceremonies – for example before religious holidays, holocaust remembrance, Independence Day – in shaping the Jewish identity of students in “regular” Israeli schools. He sent me several papers to read on the formation of Jewish and Israeli identities through such means.

While I think the next week or two will still be a mix of “getting my life together” and of my project, I think the project work has really begun!

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Slowly building our life

24 Wednesday Aug 2011

Posted by tgilheany in Family

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expat, travel with children

The Walk To School

The sign at the girls' school

MMG happy at "our" new house - with new dressup clothes

HMG was the dressup leader

Before I get to the cuteness above, I should fully disclose and say that yesterday was communications struggle day. I got cell phone and iPad coverage through a company called Talknsave. The bad news of the trip is that their office is in an obscure part of Jerusalem – it was a learning experience getting there and back. I relied on the kindness of bus drivers, two of whom steered me right and one of whom either I misunderstood or steered me wrong. The good news is that the folks at Talknsave were very helpful. The results, though, were also mixed. I got our iPad and my wife’s cell working. Alas, I must have accidentally updated my iPhone since I was here in April. It is no longer unlockable, and thus cannot take an Israeli SIM card. Sigh. I’m currently wondering if I could use an iPad for my only form of mobile communication – I doubt it, though. I suspect I will need to buy a new phone.Today was full of great news for our girls. They both love school and they came back with stories. The walk through the park to school is fast and beautiful. We also moved into the apartment we will be living in for the year. We all adore it. We have light and air, and the owners left lots of kids toys the girls are enjoying (thus the princesses at the top). Plus, they are so excited about being in the same room in bunk beds.

Friday I meet with my advisor, and Monday I meet with another contact. So far I’m still in set-up mode; once we are in more of a pattern I think I’ll need to get out and spend some full blocks of time connecting with people and researching, really driving towards getting into schools!

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Orientation Day at the girls’ new school!

22 Monday Aug 2011

Posted by tgilheany in Family

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Children, Jerusalem American International School, school

Ready for the first day of school!

I arrived at the apartment at about 5am, and by 8am we were out the door for an orientation meeting at the Jerusalem American International School. I think the girls will be very happy there! They both had positive reactions to their teachers. The official first day of school is tomorrow. Hilary, my mom and Anne have done an amazing job helping the girls adjust to Jerusalem time. We played in the park in the afternoon and Hilary and I explored our neighborhood in the evening. I had some moments of feeling like I was running in sand – trying and failing to get my cell phone to work, for example, and missing a bus because I was waiting in the shade behind the shelter and it did not see me. There were some successes also – skyping with my bank and getting the wire transfer I needed, done. For the moment, life setup is taking a back seat to the project; tomorrow will be a mix – primarily setting up meetings.

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En route

21 Sunday Aug 2011

Posted by tgilheany in Fulbright project

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Travel

Beautiful houses, but not palaces

A parking lot for 2500 bikes

A playground near the canal

I had a multi-hour wait at the Amsterdam airport, so I got online and learned that train to the city center and a boat canal tour from across from the station was the way to go.I fought my urge to get a pod in their pod hotel. The boat tour was perfect – convenient, fresh air, different, got to see a bunch of things, not too many opportunities to screw up in my half-asleep state.

Even though kings, princes and merchants are all referred to in the history of Amsterdam, the size of everything emphasizes the at least relative egalitarianism of the people.  One can – and the Dutch do – get around the city using ferry, bike and tram. I think Hannah would like to use mostly bikes and boats to get around, as would I! From the boat I also saw a fun playground Margaret would enjoy.

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Saving the best for last

19 Friday Aug 2011

Posted by tgilheany in Fulbright project

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Fulbright

Yep, I'm kind of a big deal.

I had a hint Prof. Edy Kaufman of the University of Haifa and the University of Maryland was going to be an extremely helpful contact. I’d read one of the many pieces on conflict resolution he had co-written with Prof. Manuel Hassassian, Palestinian Ambassador to the United Kingdom. I knew he had founded several important groups, and was now the principal investigator for the Center for International Development and Conflict Management. I did not know, however, that he would bring his Blackberry and be so generous with contacts as well as observations about my project. Also happily, the first person he mentioned at Hebrew University for me to contact was Professor Zvi Bekerman, who will be my advisor! So many thanks to the Fulbright folks and to Prof. Jim Greenberg for asking Prof. Kaufman to meet with me.

This evening we had a lovely farewell dinner and were given our Fulbright pins. Tonight will be my last night in the United States for a year; tomorrow night I will be over the Atlantic Ocean.

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← Older posts

Recent posts…

  • Jericho – my good and bad calls
  • Evidence of support – plaques but little else
  • Skirting Jerusalem
  • Ibrahimi mosque/Machpelech cave
  • Dr. Hasan

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