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From Middletown to the Middle East

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Must sovereignty over holy cities be a core value for those with a strong religious identity?

03 Wednesday Sep 2014

Posted by tgilheany in Islam in Global Affairs class

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ayasofia, core values, Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, iznik, Jerusalem, religious identity, sovereignty

Should Episcopalians be willing to go to war to protect this congregation's right to visit the Holy Sepulcher, 8 miles south?

Should Episcopalians be willing to go to war to protect this congregation’s right to visit the Holy Sepulcher, 8 miles south?

Most Christians are not upset about Istanbul being in Muslim hands, or Jerusalem being in Jewish hands. Are they therefore no longer as committed to their faith? These Christians would say no, that they have transcended the need to possess a place to consider it holy and to participate in that holiness. Professor Khan, however, challenged me on this position. He argued that non-Christian sovereignty of these places is hurting their status as sacred spaces for Christians. Examples:

-Permits for Palestinian Christians to worship in Jerusalem are difficult to get. The scope of operations of existing Christian churches and schools are tightly circumscribed by the state, and the government pressures churches to sell their land. Meanwhile, synagogues and yeshivas are being built with state support, even in traditionally Christian and Muslim neighborhoods.

-The current Turkish government is undermining an 80 year-long agreement between Muslims and Christians to classify contested religious sites as museums. Most famously, Hagia Sophia in Istanbul had been the Patriarchal Cathedral of Constantinople for 900 years, then a mosque until being designated a museum in 1931. But there is more and more discussion and demonstrating to turn it back into a mosque, as the government has done to the ancient church-mosque-museum in Iznik, the town in which the early Christian church met to formulate the Nicene Creed.

Similarly, Professor Khan questioned the religious identity of Muslims who are not pushing hard enough to liberate al-Quds. He told a story of polling a large number of Muslims at a conference about the four cities they most valued. They all answered Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem, (the “good Muslim” answer) and then most answered their home city. He asked them if they would take up arms if a foreign, non-Muslim country occupied their home city. Many said yes, and he responded that these must be lying about something. Jerusalem was occupied, from their perspectives as Muslims, by a foreign, non-Muslim state and they had not gone to fight. Either they valued their hometown more than Jerusalem, or they would not really go to fight for their hometown.

Despite the above example, Professor Khan argued that on average Muslims (and Jews) are more committed to sovereignty of their holy cities than are Christians. He and my classmate Bushra emphasized, for example, how it would be inconceivable for Muslims to give up Mecca to non-believers.

So, to use the language of Professor Khan in his book Jihad for Jerusalem, are holy places an incontestable core value for most Christians anymore? If so, why the lack of concern about some of those places? If not, does that show a weakening of Christian religious identity, an evolution, or something else? Does the relatively stronger passion more Jews and Muslims currently hold to control their holy cities show a stronger religious identity overall?

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Erasing history?

12 Friday Jul 2013

Posted by tgilheany in NEH Seminar

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Tags

church, historical memory, iznik, mosque, nicaea

Around the world, people make choices to emphasize the history they want to remember and deemphasize the history they wish forgotten. Most vivid in my recent experience is the example of Israel, where plaques describing the ancient Biblical or modern national history of locations are everywhere, but one can come across historic sites from the more than 1000 years of Muslim rule with no notation whatsoever. Today, did I come across another example of selective historical ignorance in Iznik, ancient Nicaea?

20130713-000331.jpgFrescos in the Church/Mosque/Museum/Mosque of Aya Sofia, Iznik, Turkey

The Council of Nicaea, where the Christian Church standardized its beliefs, met in this town, possibly in the ancient cathedral of Aya Sofia. This 4th or 5th century church was turned into a mosque in the 14th century. In those times such an offensive move was not surprising or limited to a particular religion. Famously, the same happened to the much larger Aya Sofia in Istanbul, and in Spain a century later the great mosque of Cordoba was turned into a church. When Ataturk was secularizing Turkey in the 1920s, he sought to reduce this kind of interreligious insult by making both Aya Sofias into museums. I find this a wise decision. Allow all people to learn from the site, and one can worship nearby if one wishes. Now the current Turkish administration has returned the Nicaean holy site to an active mosque. I probably would not have made this change. I could see justification for such an action, however, if it were combined with agreements to sustain the Christian history of Iznik’s Aya Sofia. In the last year, however, the signs explaining to visitors the ancient frescos, the apse, and the location of the old altar have been removed. A detailed introductory poster has been replaced with a shorter poster. Meanwhile several Muslim rondels have been hung up.

20130712-235954.jpgNew mosque decorations. Not seen: informative historical placards

Will the explanatory texts be updated, better lit, and returned? I hope so. As I would in Israel, or in the United States, in Turkey I argue that human happiness is not a zero-sum game, and that one can worship as one wishes without suppressing the ability of others to worship as they wish.

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