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From Middletown to the Middle East

~ Reflections on travel and teaching

From Middletown to the Middle East

Tag Archives: Turkey

Another angle on religion in Turkish schools

21 Sunday Jul 2013

Posted by tgilheany in NEH Seminar

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Gülen, religion in schools, secularism, Turkey

20130721-172412.jpgSufi and other graves at the Sulemaniye Mosque complex

To complicate the narrative of religion in Turkish schools even further, I heard today about the Gülen schools. Founded by mystical leader (though he claims not to be a Sufi) Fetullah Gülen, these schools are advertised as a fascinating mix of cutting edge education in science, technology, engineering and math, as well as spiritually-inspired service education. Its critics, primarily the secularists, are worried it is a Trojan horse to introduce religion into the schools. More broadly, they claim the Gülen movement, which goes far beyond school, has many attributes of a cult. They argue it is strictly hierarchical, secretive, requires large “donations,” demands obedience, and expects members to favor each other in business and government.

A visitor to Gülen schools told me that though they claim to be ecumenical and modern, there is pressure for women to wear hijab, and that men and women do not sit together in the faculty lounge.

The movement is too complicated for me to explore in depth, but if you are interested check out the Wikipedia article. They have been founding schools around the world, including in the United States.

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Speaking with Turkish teachers about religion

19 Friday Jul 2013

Posted by tgilheany in NEH Seminar

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Islam, secularism, teaching religion, Turkey

Recently we had the chance to speak with a group of Turkish high school teachers and professors of education. We discussed the common concerns of teachers – serving students of differing backgrounds and abilities, preparing students for standardized tests, responding effectively to parental concerns, etc. I also had the opportunity to ask a little bit about teaching religion in the schools. Unfortunately I was not able to get into the detail I would have liked, but one point struck me.

I was speaking with a very secular teacher who expressed dismay at a recent change in the schools. Prior to two years ago, the state funded a relatively small number of religious high schools, intended to train students for the ministry or for Qur’anic teaching. They have now begun these religious schools with middle school, and expanded the number of students. The teacher commented, “They want to get the girls to cover [wear the hijab] as soon as they are adults” (meaning the traditional religious definition, c. 12 years old). The teacher also claimed that there would not be enough jobs for the people who gradate from these schools. When I asked another, passionately secular Turk, about this change he said “the Islamic radicals [note – those were his words – I think “religious conservatives” might be more accurate] want the student to go to these schools before he can think for himself and say no to his parents.”

On the other hand, a friend asked another secular teacher, “Are students allowed time off during school to pray?” and she reports that the teacher seemed horrified. “No – they can pray on their own time.” And the veil is still disallowed in the state schools. If I am understanding the situation correctly, then, the schools appear to be a battleground for enforced secularism vs. enforced religiosity.

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Happy Ramadan!

09 Tuesday Jul 2013

Posted by tgilheany in NEH Seminar

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Islam, Ramadan, Turkey

Istanbul between the Sultanahmet Mosque and Hagia Sophia was hopping this evening. The streets were full of families walking, kids playing with glow sticks, food vendors of all kinds, and musicians. Last year I commented on my blog that Sukkot in Israel is like Christmas. I’ve never felt the joy of Ramadan (or Ramazan as they say in Turkish) before – it also feels like Christmas…only hot and at night.

Here a sign strung between two minarets of the Sultanahmet says “Welcome to the month of Ramadan!”

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On a free stage in the park whirling dervishes were dancing, and we heard the instrument that Rumi says sounds most like the human voice. Tonight I’ve been told that drummers will walk through the streets at 2:30am to wake everyone to prepare for the predawn meal. As far as I can tell not many people in this area of Istanbul will need to be awoken – I think they’ll still be up!

I should say that today in another area of Istanbul there was far less joy – the police again beat and tear-gassed protesters in Taksim Square. We are far away from that activity, both atmospherically and physically. Still, my thoughts are with the people who are trying to push for a more democratic Turkey.

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Hearing firsthand about the Turkish protests

07 Sunday Jul 2013

Posted by tgilheany in NEH Seminar

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Gezi, Istanbul, Taksim, Turkey

Arriving in Taksim Square, my first reaction was the mix of normalcy and police presence. A few blocks off the square there are busses and busses of police, hanging out in the shade, checking their cell phones, having coffee. In Gezi Park, which is cordoned off with police tape, there are police and muscular young gentlemen in civilian clothes (hmmm…who could they be?) sitting at the tables enjoying the afternoon breeze. I think if you are higher ranking you get to sit in the park, while the lower ranks have to stick near the bus.

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In and around the square there is the occasional semi-automatic rifle armed cop, but not very many. This afternoon the mission is not “make your presence felt.” Perhaps the biggest giveaway is the line of water-hose armored trucks parked on one side of the square. When a man volunteered to give me directions, he ended with “You know we are having a war here. Be careful.” (I think he was enjoying trying to frighten the tourist.) But there are many, many people out strolling and shopping.

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I had the chance to talk at length with one young woman who has been very involved in the protests. Hanging just inside her apartment door were her hard hat, goggles and filtration mask.

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She seemed extremely optimistic, and when I asked her, she agreed and explained why. “When friends used to come, they saw the economy doing well and the nightlife in this neighborhood – you know, the ‘modern Islamic democracy.’ I had to tell them that this was not the whole story. For example, in this neighborhood I can live alone as a woman, but just one neighborhood over a wife can be beaten for talking to a man. Now the whole world knows [that the government does not always protect human rights].”

I mentioned to her how odd I found Prime Minister Erdogan’s use of the word terrorist, when the protesters were plainly young secularists using non-violent tactics almost exclusively. “Yes! But actually I hope they [the government] continue to talk like this. It shows people who they really are. The AKP is not backing down at all. They just keep pushing. For example, Ramadan begins soon. Their plan for Gezi Park is to give AKP [Erdogan’s party] people tickets and let them into the park for Iftar [the breaking of the fast on Ramadan evenings]! I mean, if you are not wearing a scarf you do not count for this government.”

I asked her what was next. “I think we should go to parliament – form our own political party.” I asked her about the current opposition party. “They are arrogant…I mean, they want what is best for the people, not like Erdogan. But the CHP – you know, this is Ataturk’s party, and they treat him like a god. I mean, I have no problem with Ataturk, but this is too much. We should bring together our own political party.”

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Countdown to my Turkey trip and blog renaming

19 Wednesday Jun 2013

Posted by tgilheany in Uncategorized

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blog name, NEH, Primary Source, Turkey

In 18 days I will board my Swissair flight to Istanbul via Zurich. I will be taking the seminar Ottoman Cultures: Society, Politics and Trade in the Turkish Empire 1299-1922. I am grateful to the National Endowment for the Humanities Division of Education, funders of the seminar. I also want to thank Primary Source, a non-profit that “promotes history and humanities education by connecting educators to people and cultures throughout the world.”

My ongoing adventures call for a renaming of this blog. Thus, “From Middletown to the Middle East.” Stop by!

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Recent posts…

  • Jericho – my good and bad calls
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